London calling

Andrew Catchpole looks at the beers and breweries of Greater London, Middlesex and Surrey

London’s best known contribution to the beer world is the treacle dark, burnt-bitter edged, thirst-slaking beauty that is porter.

This original London stout was possibly created by one Ralph Harwood of the Bell Brewhouse in Shoreditch in or around 1722 (a plaque still marks the spot). Whatever its origins, porter soon caught on – and probably gained its name – from its popularity with the hard-working porters of London’s vibrant meat, fish and vegetable markets.

Its re-emergence as a signature style with both old established family brewers and recently established microbreweries is a welcome testimony to the ever improving quality and sense of place accorded to London’s beers today.

Surrey, too, has gained ground during the past couple of decades and now boasts award-winning microbreweries and brews to slake a discerning thirst.

There have been losses, including the much loved Pitfield Brewery in Shoreditch, which is being forced to relocate outside London due to absurd rises in local business rates and rent. At the other end of the scale, Guinness left off its London brewing operations last year.

However, this new millennium has witnessed the opening of Battersea (2000), Meantime (2000), Grand Union (2002), Twickenham (2005) in London, plus cool, modern brew restaurants like Mash and Brew Wharf.

All these award winners were matched by Hog’s Back (2002) and Surrey Hills (2005) in Surrey. Add old favourites Fuller’s and Young’s into the equation and the capital can hold .....

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By Andrew Catchpole

Section : Regional Focus

Page number : 35