Deutsch bier uber alles

The Bavarian Beerhouse is bringing a touch of Germany to the centre of London, says Andrew Burnyeat. The perfect place to head during the World Cup?

If you’ve ever been to a Munich beer hall, as a beer lover you’ve had a glimpse inside heaven.

The beer is among the world’s best, the décor and design are gothically outstanding or traditionally Bavarian and the atmosphere, thanks to the sociable long tables and merry musical accompaniments, is just wonderful.

The experience is also a quintessentially German one – which is why it may seem strange to some that the experience has been transplanted to Old Street, that buffer zone between the City and north London.

The Bavarian Beerhouse on City Road may disappoint at first if you’re expecting one of the high-ceilinged cathedrals to beer you may have seen in Germany.

The décor and design is simplistic. There are a few branded beer lanterns, some edelweiss and a few posters, but nothing to write home about. The plain, laminated menus and beer lists follow in the same vein.

But the place grows on you. The waiting staff, management and chefs are all German and traditionally dressed, the beer is excellent and genuinely Bavarian – there’s Erdinger, Hofbrauhaus and Paulaner; weissbier and dunkel and even a low-alcohol version.

Beer is served by waitresses, not at the bar – after all, this is a restaurant – and it comes in litre steins or pints. You couldn’t say it’s cheap, but it’s good value for money and if you’re in a group you can buy your beer in bulk. There’s a ‘three-beersfor-£ 10’ deal which encourages people to try a selection rather than sticking to one beer all evenin.....

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By Andrew Burnyeat

Section : Spotlight

Page number : 62