Magic malt!

Editor Dominic Roskrow on those magic malt moments that sneak up on you and remind you why beer and whisky can be so special

Over my many years on this planet, I’ve had more magic moments from malt – beer and whisky – than Champagne ones.

The principle reason for this is that celebration moments with Champagne tend to be contrived – you have something to celebrate so out comes the Champagne. Malt moments are more spontaneous. They can creep up on you and come at the most unlikeliest of times and from the unlikeliest of sources.

Champagne is about a fine and special product in the first place. Malt moments don’t have to be. So while you might have a magic malt because the product you’re drinking is very rare or special, it’s just as possible for it to be because of the circumstances: a case of being in the right place, at the right time.

For me my first proper German beer – a Löwenbräu in Munich – when on a school trip some 30 years ago, a warm can of Tetley’s while travelling back from Sheffield after Leicester City won the Carling Cup, chilled Steinlagers in the car pack at Auckland’s Eden Park after the All Blacks had scored 70 odd points against the Welsh, some draught Czech beer out of a glass the size of a bucket in sub-zero temperatures during a Valentine’s treat for my future wife, and drowning pints of Everard’s Old Original in the garden of a Leicestershire pub on long hot evenings – they all feature up there for me, sometimes despite and not because of the beer in question.

And while there’s nothing wrong with Champagne, it is what it is. Both malt whisky and quality beer never cease to throw up surprises because they are both so diverse.

I have been thinking about all this partially because I was taken back to my Löwenbräu moment when editing the German cover story for this issue. But also because I have had back to back magic malt moments in the last few weeks; one expected, the other not.

The expected one came courtesy of my first bottle of Alaskan smoked porter. I’m usually a little wary when a profession closes ranks to decide something is good or bad, preferring to make up my own mind. But with our regular taster Jeff giving it a big thumbs up and both Roger Protz and Michael Jackson both fans, I was curious.

Good golly! Where has it been all my life? And where can I get more? It’s reviewed in this issue by someone far more qualified than I but for what it’s worth – go get some!

The other came courtesy of the new dark beer from Budweiser Budvar.

In this case I went to the launch of the bottled version without thinking about it too much, and came away amazed. If familiarity has bred contempt a little with this marvellous brewery, the new dark version will reignite any faded passion.

The magic malt moments seem to be coming along more frequently at the moment. Certainly I’m finding my taste in beer reshaped, particularly by some of the great beers coming out of America. This issue’s tasting of some smaller American brewers is as good a pointer as any as to where we’re heading with the magazine. As is the food and beer pairing with Garrett Oliver. He’s even included Schneider Aventinus – a Champagne beer.

Let’s hope it carries on like this – who knows we might knock sparkling wine out of our celebrations altogether.

By Dominic Roskrow

Section : From the Editor

Page number : 5