Kiev’s wheat taste of success

An international alliance is creating a world class wheat beer in the Ukraine. Roger Protz visited the brewery that is making waves across the globe

The Ukraine has gone from orange to white in a year.

First, the Orange Revolution swept the old regime from power and ushered in a pro-Western government. Now a privatised brewing industry is widening choice for drinkers and the most surprising development is locally brewed German-style ‘white’ or wheat beer. The country has a long history of brewing and distilling due to the abundance of grain it produces.

During the communist period, the Ukraine was known as the Soviet breadbasket and a poor harvest sent shock waves throughout the sprawling empire.

Beers from the Ukraine, in common with the rest of the Soviet Union, tended to be thin, undistinguished lagers.

The large Obolon brewery in Kiev, when it was in state hands, exported a beer to Britain in the 1980s called Zhiguli, promoted with the risible slogan ‘The beer that grabs you by the Zhigulis.’ It told you all you needed to know about Ukrainian beer at that time.

Now quality and diversity are improving. The global brewers have arrived and visitors will find Baltika, Beck’s, Staropramen, Stella Artois, Tuborg and other international brands. But the beer that is winning plaudits is the wheat beer Weissbier Etalon, produced by a small but rapidly expanding independent drinks company in the small town of Radomyshl, 45 minutes from the capital, Kiev.

Two Czechs installed the original brewing plant at Radomyshl in 1886. They brought with them the new technology from Pilsen that had captivated the world with the first go.....

To read the rest of this article you can buy this issue or subscribe to Beers of the World to have every issue delivered direct to your door.

By Roger Protz

Section : International Brewery

Page number : 58