Star of the East (Adnams)

Few breweries dominate their locality the way Adnams does in Southwold. Adrian Tierney-Jones visited it

Early morning in Southwold and a massive plume of white steam pours from a tall chimney at Adnams. The first brew of the day is underway, supervised by head brewer Mike Powell- Evans and assistant Fergus Fitzgerald.

The sweetish aroma of gristy maltiness hangs in the air. Elsewhere in the brewery yard, lorries have been loaded with casks and the clang of metal has rung through the air since 7am. So starts another day at one of England’s best-loved breweries.

Adnams’ beers have always enjoyed the sort of princely reputation lesser breweries would sell their chairman for. The eyes of ale connoisseurs light up at the mention of their stupendous Best Bitter (3.7%) with its distinctive dry-hopped character and the magnificently complex Broadside (4.7%), while the cold winters of Suffolk are warmed by nips of its rare and noble barley wine, Tally Ho.

The fact that Adnams still resides in the middle of the community also catches the imagination of the discerning drinker.

An image of Southwold Jack, a copy of the popular clock-striking medieval soldier found in the town’s church, keeps watch from an alcove in the brewery wall. Meanwhile, certain days see hefty carthorses pulling drays around the town where all the pubs serve the beers in sparkling form.

So far so romantic, but brewing is not just about the romance of burnished copper, papal-like white steam and wood-lined mash tuns. There is change in the air here.

For a start, managing director Jonathan Adnams becomes chairman.....

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By Adrian Tierney-Jones

Section : Brewery Focus

Page number : 24