The great white north

Don Tse takes us on a journey to discover the beers and breweries of Canada.

Canada lacks the long brewing history that Britain, Germany and Belgium boast. As much as 90 per cent of Canada’s beer market is dominated by two brewing behemoths that make bland, inoffensive lagers sold on the basis of marketing rather than flavour. Worse yet, both are now controlled by foreign interests.

Even Canada’s most successful foray into the craft beer movement is now owned by a Japan-based international brewing giant. It’s hard to have a brewing culture to call your own when it’s controlled by others. Despite this lack of brewing heritage, or perhaps because of it, there has been a recent surge in brewpubs and micro and regional breweries.

Alcohol in Canada is regulated at the provincial, rather than national, level and there is substantial variance between provinces. There are different packaging and labelling laws, different distribution requirements and various levels of importfriendliness.

This makes inter-provincial expansion for small brewers surprisingly difficult. As a result, local brewers serve primarily their local markets and are often an integral part of their communities.

As a nation largely settled by immigrants, Canada is culturally diverse. Because of the geographic expanse between major centres, the regions of Canada have maintained distinct cultures reflecting the early settlers to the regions. As a part of their communities, regional brewers reflect these cultures. So, the interesting aspect of Canadian beer is not the 90 per cent that can b.....

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By Don Tse

Section : Brewery Focus

Page number : 26