In an English country hop farm
Adrian Tierney-Jones takes a walk through the hop farms of Herefordshire, England.
Hops and malt are the double act of brewing, the Gilbert and George or Laurel and Hardy of the copper, before being joined by their special guest star: yeast. Malt provides the luscious biscuity and caramel-like sweetness, sometimes lightfingered, other times full-bodied – the soul of beer indeed. Hops, on the other hand, are down-to-earth and in your face as they offer beer its bitterness as well as zesty, fruity and spicy flavours and aromas.
In the wake of both the barley and hop harvest many brewers can be found visiting the farms from where their ingredients originate. It is a way of keeping close to the earth and maintaining contact with suppliers. Over in Herefordshire, England, hop merchant Charles Farum has been holding regular hop walks for some years now, where its brewing customers can be brought face to face with the toils and tribulations, as well as the triumphs, of those farmers who grow that wonderful plant Humulus Lupulus. Which is why I am lagging behind a gaggle of brewers on a warm September’s day out in the wilds of Herefordshire, on one of the company’s annual walks.
Pridewood Hop Farm is near Ledbury and the Powell-Tuck family have been growing hops there for decades. This is a beautiful location, surrounded by low hills, while out in the fields there are acres of hop poles and wires, garnished with the hop bines as yet unpicked.
Out of 400 acres farmed, 59 are devoted to hops: Challenger, Fuggles, Goldings, Target, Phoenix, Pilgrim and WGV. As I ar.....
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By Adrian Tierney-Jones
Section : Spotlight
Page number : 66