A bitter subject

In the latest of our series on beer styles, Roger Protz takles the ubiquitous pint of bitter

Ask anyone from abroad with a passing interest in beer to name England’s most famous style and the answer is likely to be “bitter.” While British connoisseurs revel in such famous styles as India pale ale, porter and stout, there’s no doubt it is bitter that most clearly defines our beer culture.

While American craft brewers scarcely if ever use the term, it was the bitter ales of England that inspired many of the pioneers of good beer in the United States. Fritz Maytag, renowned owner of the Anchor Brewery in San Francisco,was encouraged to perfect the likes of Liberty Ale by a visit to England where he was entranced by, among others, Young’s Bitter and Timothy Taylor’s Landlord.

In spite of its emphatic name, bitter is not necessarily more bitter or hoppy than the styles from which it emerged. India pale ale was massively hopped to help it withstand long sea journeys to the east. Pale ale was a lower strength version of IPA developed for the domestic market but still with a powerful punch of hops. Long before bitter emerged as a style in its own right, drinkers and writers in the late 19th century referred to “the bitter beers of Burton-on-Trent.” Bitter, in the guise we recognise today, was a style born as much by the demands of brewers’ cash flow as consumer preference. The 19th century was a turbulent time for the brewing industry. In 1830, a Beer Act allowed anyone to open a pub or beer house on payment of two guineas (£2.40) for a licence. Around 46,000 new beer hous.....

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By Roger Protz

Section : Beer styles

Page number : 62