Steam dreams
Tim Hampson lets the train take the strain as he explores the age-old romance between
beer and steam power
I love pubs like the Cornmill – modern, lively, sassy and with a story to tell. If location itself made a perfect pub then the Cornmill, Llangollen in North Wales would be one of the best in the world.
A former 18th century corn mill, which had fallen on hard times, it has been recently converted into a stunning pub, built around the water wheel which once again relentlessly turns after a quarter of a century of dereliction. It is fine example of a new pub development, which has helped kickstart the regeneration of an area.
Inside it is a delight of stairs, floors and seating areas. The brave at heart can stand on a glass floor and watch the River Dee race by beneath.
Outside, the decks stand proud over the thrusting rapids.
The Cornmill is a proper pub, proud to sell British beer. I tried the Facer’s Bitter with its wonderful orange notes, which paired superbly with the Welsh sausage and mash.
And as I sat and relaxed, suddenly my ears filled with the evocative reverberations of a train’s shrill whistle.
For the pub stands opposite the Llangollen railway station – trains first came to this Denbighshire town in 1861. And until 1964 they would carry freight and passengers from Wales through to Shrewsbury and Chester in England. But then the infamous Dr Beeching cut the iron heart out of Britain’s railroads with the closure of many lines.
There has always been a close link between British brewers and the steam age. For those Victorian breweries that survive today can tra.....
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By Tim Hampson
Section : Beer Trends
Page number : 58
